I think that most of these 1200 to 1300W start profiles a probably overdoing it.
This thread was my response to how the PID handles power (heater) throughout a roast.
Try and "charge" the roast with a heap of heat so that it stabilises things and the PID will not make too many adjustments, I thought it kind of worked...BUT I continue to experience / gather evidence that any reduction in power (heater) throughout the roast by the PID is creating roast defects. Where and how many times this happens during the roast determines what kind of defects will be most prominent or just a muddled baked mess.
Since your questions on power profiling I was inspired to go back and have another serious crack at it, so this is what I have been doing in between my probe crapping out twice. Last night I managed to cobble together a new probe similar in length to stock thermocouple sheath, using the old stock thermocouple and an old instant read thermometer tip and its working quite well.
This is where I am at....with the caveat that this is for ONE particular green coffee, 2020 washed Caturra from Costa Rica, 1400 - 1700 MASL. Any hope of getting this approach to work with other coffees will likely require several test roasts with careful observation of how they play out then with an understanding of how and why power profiles work make careful adjustments to the calculations to get the best possible result.
These settings will not be directly transferable to anyone else's roaster or location environment even using the same green coffee but likely a good starting point.
Starting power / pre heat power = 1000W
I want to hit colour change around 2:45 - 3:00 at 1200W
Zone 1
Start: 0:00
End: 3:10
Boost: 25 (boost is 25% on 1000W should be 1250W, BUT the calculations used on the power profile zones do not like large numbers, the larger the number the more the gap grows. But its usually around 5 to 6% loss of programmed increase boost %, so 25% boost allows for this giving me close to 1200W by 3:00)
I want roughly around the same time to FCS 2:45 - 3:00
Zone 2
Start: 3:00 (this needs to be 10 sec before the end of zone 1 otherwise there will be a blip where PID comes back online)
End: 8:00
Boost: 4.16
I have not been able to use a Zone 3 successfully without power interruptions from PID?
The Zone 2 end point time combined with Boost % will determine ROR going into and through first crack, which requires some trial and error depending on whether you want a dark or light roast. Darker roasts need to be going faster through first crack to hit higher end temps with a constantly increasing power profile.
Something like 3:00 / 3:00 / 2:30 to 3:00 to the start of 2nd crack is great starting point for most Arabica.
The following are from the Costa Rica Caturra previoulsy mentioned.
Both are 13.4% weight loss
Both look very similar whole bean and ground, that is where the similarities end.
The POWER profile is cupping very clean and focused, sweet and aromatic with no off tastes.
Once I was happy with the POWER profile I made it into a normal PID profile to see what would happen. It tastes as bad as it looks, I figure the way power is all over the place at the start (big increase and decrease like my previous profiles in this thread) is causing underdevelopment this is followed by a big increase in heat /power up to and through colour change then a dramatic drop around the start of browning which will be BAKING the hell out of it. This results in a strong roasted vegetable character, thin, not sweet, no acidity and a persistent rough bitterness aftertaste. These 2 nearly identical roast could not be further apart in taste....